Miter Bench
Oct 25, 2009Public
Photo: It's time to start the miter bench...
Photo: In order to save a few bucks, I built a 2x4 base. This allowed me get 3 dividers out of a sheet of plywood instead of two.
Photo: Starting with everything level will pay for itself down the road.
Photo: I, for the life of me, can't remember what I was trying to measue here, but I took a picture of it anyway...
Photo: The end pieces are knotty pine plywood and extend all the way to the floor. I assembled the bench as one piece...
Photo: ...and then just rolled it onto the base.
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Photo: After ensuring everything was level it was screwed to the wall and base. The cabinet dimensions are 13 1/2' long x 33 1/2" high x 31" deep.
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Photo: It didn't take me long to realize a minor screw-up. I brought the DC a little to far up out of the floor here. Coming up this high is going to cause a little trouble when it comes time to plumb the DC to the saws...
Photo: As you can see, I'm using Norm's design - with a few modifications. The top will be 1" plywood (left over from the floor) on top of a 2x4 base. The 2x4's are joined using half-laps.
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Photo: The DeWalt RAS will be sitting right here. The plan for this bench is to have all three saws "connected" with extension tables in between. With the RAS sitting higher than the CMS's, I need to inset it into the top of the bench a little bit...
Photo: So, a quick shelf is installed that will drop the table/base of the RAS down ~2 1/2"...
Photo: The finished top (once the plywood & hardboard were attached ) is 13' 10" long x 32" deep x 2 1/2" thick.
Photo: The 1" plywood top is cut to fit and screwed in place.
Photo: As I mentioned earlier, bringing the DC out of the floor as high as I did would mean more work later on, and here's where it starts. In order to get dust collection for the RAS I had to modify some parts to get everything to fit under the shelf...
Photo: With the modifications came custom fit pieces...
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Photo: The tee installed and the gate for the 10" CMS to the left...
Photo: After thinking, and re-thinking, about how I wanted to open & close the blast gates for the miter bench, it finally hit me that the simplest way was to use choke cables - provided I could find one with a long enough travel. As luck would have it, I did find some cable with just shy of 4" travel that proved to work perfectly...